“You cannot feel Bhutan by reading about it. You cannot know true Bhutan without visiting it. And You will not regret visiting Bhutan.”
Dear Patrick,
It has been a very long time since we last spoke to each other. It was during the Pandemic and all we could talk about was about the virus crossing every known border and indiscriminately killing people. It was Armageddon.
Just like other countries, Bhutan felt the brunt of the virus and the hospitality industry was severely affected. With all gates closed, tourism came to a standstill. However, as you always say “we fortunate Bhutanese” had our King who led the war against Covid 19 and ensured that no people went through pain. Hundreds of guides and thousands of people were looked after by His Majesty.
I remember you enquiring about the increase in sustainable development fee (SDF) and repercussions we would face. Truly, we faced the repercussions, but gradually our guests understand why we hiked the SDF. Though I do not go out with guests like I used to, those I have taken around say that the government should have increased it much earlier. Every guest I have attended to say that they get much more value compared to what they pay.
When I talk with these guests, I remember you telling me that most guests, especially dollar paying tourists do not come to Bhutan for luxury tourism. They do not come to sleep in star rated hotels or eat expensive food. Having experienced all this, they look for a place that will offer them something different. And they find this in Bhutan. You told me that it was the same reason that brought you to Bhutan, with which you have now developed a bond that is unshakable.
I remember our visit to a home in Bumthang, where you were surprised when the lady warmly welcomed us. She rolled her best carpet for you and offered you her best “Ara.” It was a cold day and you had a good share. “Garab. We come looking for places and people like this, which have disappeared from the face of the world,” you said. Your eyes were filled with tears when the woman gave you a traditional Bhutanese woven hat. And when I translated to you what she said, you couldn’t hide your tears. “We believe that Karma brings us together. I may have been you mother in the past life,” the woman said. As we bid her good bye and drove to Chamkhar, you didn’t speak at all. Next morning, you said, you will never forget “yesterday.”
I cannot forget an advice you gave. “As long as toilets and rooms are clean, guests will not mind. Do not let farm houses become hotels.” I am following most of what you said and doing my best to convey the same to all guides. I always take my guests to villages, make them talk with the people, old and young and whenever possible, make them witness religious ceremonies people perform to ward off evil and other purposes. If interested, I take them to bars and Karaokes.
Recently, I had two guests who wanted to trek to Do Dey Drak. Once we reached the site, they asked if they could spend the night there. The head monk welcomed them. Before dinner they were served fried Ara. They were welcomed for the early morning rituals and prayers. If I hadn’t insisted, they would have spent the day also at the Monastery. Julia, the lady asked me how much they should give to the monastery. I said it is up to them. When we left, Julia shed tears, just like you did at Bumthang.
I believe that shedding tears is a depiction of emotion. It depends on the circumstances and some tears are also called tears of joy. In my career as a guide and now founder of the Guides Association of Bhutan (GAB), I have seen thousands of guests shed the “tears of happiness,” as we drop them at the Paro International Airport.
And why do they shed these tears? Because of their experiences in Bhutan and the world that Bhutan is.
“You cannot feel Bhutan by reading about it. You cannot know true Bhutan without visiting it. And You will not regret visiting Bhutan.” Patrick, these were your words.
(Edited for space and clarity)
Garab Dorji
Chairman/Founder, GAB
